Artistic Concrete Supplies

There are many examples of lime-based plaster floor applications in keeping with the Venetian tradition. Starting with this antique technique, we have combined an application technique with a material to achieve an excellent compromise-- retaining the aesthetic of antique marmorino while adding the durability modern day living demands. Description: This finish is suitable for use in areas where you want natural materials and simple lines. For this reason, it?s ideal for a minimalist environment because of smooth, uninterrupted continuity. It?s suitable for any area: bathrooms, kitchens, stairs, hallways, or bedrooms. Care must be taken to avoid damaging it as you would for any other floor made of wood, tile or soft stone. Cleaning is extremely easy-- maybe more than for any other kind of flooring. It has a naturally non-slip surface, but special anti-slip treatments are possible. It has a smooth, lightly polished finish with a transparent look. The final effect depends on the protective treatment. Linseed oil gives it the most natural appearance, but is quite delicate. Polyurethane varnish gives the surface a stronger, difficult to scratch and can be satin to glossy. However, the presence of varnish may look unnatural to the trained eye. Because this flooring is delicate, it is not recommended for use in public areas. It can be damaged by falling objects or scratched easily if heavy objects are dragged over its surface. This finish looks similar to those found traditionally in Asiatic countries (India, Sri Lanka). Thickness: 2.5 mm. For interiors. Composition: Lime-based plaster, white cement with elevated resistance, marble grit with variable thickness up to 1.1 mm. and additives such as acrylic resins to increase durability and adhesion. Packaging: Polyethylene tubs of 20 kg. The product comes in a white powder which can be tinted. Theoretical yield: Metric: Approximately 2000 grams per square meter, i.e. 10 square meters per 20 kg bucket. U.S.: Approximately 100 - 150 square feet per 20 kg bucket. Where to apply Floor Marmorino: The ideal substrate is a lime and sand cement finish similar to those normally required when applying wooden flooring or ceramic tile. It is important the substrate has been carefully leveled. It is possible to apply it on old ceramic or marble floors that have been treated with a suitable cement plaster. If this is the case, be sure the breaks between the existing tiles are filled in and leveled out since the smallest trace of a break will be visible in the finished work. How to apply Floor Marmorino: Note: This is a description of the normal application. A primer should be applied as a fixative for dust. If you use our primer, dilute it 1:8 and apply it to small areas. Apply the first coat of Natural Floor Marmorino directly onto the wet primer. In this way, the primer does not behave as an insulating film, which would reduce the water absorption of the substrate. You need to have good water absorption in the substrate when applying the second and third coats. If a different brand of primer is used, it is best to let it dry completely since you don?t know how compatible it will be with lime-based cement products. Preparation of the material: -Mix a bucket of the product with about 4 liters of water. (The exact amount depends on the conditions of application, on the absorption of the substrate and personal preference.) You don?t need to add any color to the first coat. The mixture remains workable for about 4 hours at 20° C. It is applied with a steel trowel, starting at the wall opposite the door and working in 50 cm. sections (an arm?s length). The marks that are left in this phase will determine the final look. Unless you are trying for a special effect, it is recommended not to leave too many marks; to do so, flatten the ridges, which naturally occur during application, with the blade of the trowel. Let it dry completely, at least 24 hours. It?s important that the first coat is completely dry and before applying the successive coats. The successive coats will be applied one after the other, that is, wet-on-wet, so a dry substrate is of the utmost importance to aid in absorption. -When you mix the plaster with water and colorant, keep in mind how much material you will need to apply within the next 2-3 hours. Remember that after an hour or two the material will thicken on its own. The second coat should be applied with a normal, metal trowel using the same technique used for Marmorino Carrara. Take care to obtain a smooth, non-shiny surface without holes. As with the first coat, work in small areas. These areas should not be parallel to the wall opposite the door, but semicircular in reference to the other three walls thereby insuring the complete coverage of the floor while leaving a way to get out of the room. -For the third coat, use your best trowel, one with rounded corners and a smooth blade. It can be a large trowel (280 mm.) or a medium one (240 mm.). The third coat should be applied like Marmorino Carrara. You have to decide when it?s the right moment to apply the third coat. Utmost care should be taken when stepping on the second coat while it?s drying. Don?t wear shoes, and if you wear socks they should be of a fine weave which won?t leave marks. Panels of soft material, which are covered with grease-proof or waxed paper, can be used to protect the second coat while giving you a comfortable surface to work from. Before beginning this job, it?s best for those who are not used to working on floors to know that it is hard physcal work - it puts a strain on back muscles - to work for 4-5 hours non-stop. It is best to have one person for every 10-12 meters when applying the last two coats. Most people with some experience applying normal marmorino should be able undertake the application of this material. Protecting Surfaces Against Dirt: Marmorino, thanks to its smooth surface, is a finish that doesn't get dirty easily. However, we suggest applying one of the following treatments when it is completely cured (after about 1 week). A) Cooked linseed oil. This can be applied as is or slightly diluted depending on the temperature. Use a cloth to apply it uniformly and abundantly over the entire surface. A little later, remove any excess and polish it using a dry cloth. (There are machines that can be used for this purpose.) You will need to apply wax after several days, and ordinarily between cleaning to retain impermeability. B) A protective varnish. We suggest using varnishes containing a polyurethane with 2 components plus solvent. This varnish is available in two finishes: satin or glossy. This is the kind of varnish commonly used on wooden floors and is applied in 2 or 3 coats. The main characteristic of this kind of varnish is that it is applied (usually by roller, but also with a brush) without waiting too long between coats; usually a few hours is sufficient. In fact, because they become very hard and, therefore, crystallized when dry, it becomes difficult to apply a second coat if the first is left to dry too long. Be sure to read the instructions of any varnish we don?t produce. Water based clear coats for flooring may also be used. Note: When varnish or oil is applied, the color brightens up and the Marmorino darkens much the same as if it were wet. This finish is, therefore, said to have a ?wet look?. It?s important to take this into consideration when choosing color. Before applying a polyurethane varnish or treating it with oil, we suggest, if possible, letting the finish season for at least 20 days. This is the normal time needed for cement to almost reach its maximum hardness, so it is best not to interfere with the hardening process. If you don?t have the time available to wait this long, as often happens at work sites, wait at least six or seven days before applying the protective treatment. Maintenance: In the case of oil treatment, it is best to wax the floor every five to ten washings. In the case of varnish, it can be washed like a normal floor. After many years, Marmorino can be re-varnished as is done with wooden floors.